Alessandra Semenzato

Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable raw materials for reformulating three commercial oil-in-water skin care emulsions from an eco-design perspective. Synthetic texturizers, like nylon-12 and PMMA, were replaced with starch, maltodextrin, and silica, while acrylic rheological modifiers were substituted with polysaccharide associations of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, diutan gum, and carrageenan. Plant-based emollients and a biodegradable elastomer were used as alternatives to silicone oils. The flow and viscoelastic properties of the samples were characterized using rheological tests under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions. The immersion/de-immersion texture analysis allowed us to measure the mechanical properties of firmness, adhesiveness, and stringiness. A double-blind sensory test assessed the products’ application and sensory characteristics. The results revealed that rheology and texture analysis are complementary and correlated techniques, useful for predicting cosmetics’ sensory characteristics. While perfect replication of the original formulas might not be achievable, this protocol can aid formulators in selecting new eco-friendly ingredients ensuring the products’ desired application and sensory properties without compromising consumer experience.