Amparo Nácher

The present study aimed to formulate and characterize a hesperetin formulation to achieve adequate deposition and retention of hesperetin in the epidermis as a target for some cosmetic/dermatological actions. To derive the final emulgel, various formulations incorporating different proportions of Polysorbate 80 and hyaluronic acid underwent testing through a Box–Behnken experimental design. Nine formulations were created until the targeted emulgel properties were achieved. This systematic approach, following the principles of a design of experiment (DoE) methodology, adheres to a quality-by-design (QbD) paradigm, ensuring a robust and purposeful formulation and highlighting the commitment to a quality-driven design approach. The emulsions were developed using the phase inversion method, optimizing the emulgel with the incorporation of hyaluronic acid. Physically stable optimized emulgels were evaluated for their globule size, surface charge, viscosity, pH, electrical conductivity, and hesperetin content. These assays, along with the temperature swing test, were used to select the optimal formulation. It was characterized by a droplet size, d[4,3], of 4.02 μm, a Z-potential of −27.8 mV, an O/W sign, a pH of 5.2, and a creamy texture and proved to be stable for at least 2 months at room temperature. Additionally, in vitro release kinetics from the selected emulgel exhibited a sustained release profile of hesperetin. Skin assays revealed adequate retention of hesperetin in the human epidermis with minimum permeation. Altogether, these results corroborate the promising future of the proposed emulgel in cosmetic or dermatological use on healthy or diseased skin.