Barbara Sgorbini

Tyrosinase is a target enzyme to be inhibited in order to reduce excessive melanin production and prevent typical age-related skin disorders. Essential oils are complex mixtures of volatile compounds, belonging mainly to monoterpenoids and sesquiterpenoids, which have been relatively little studied as tyrosinase inhibitors. Among the monoterpenoids, citral (a mixture of neral and geranial) is a fragrance compound in several essential oils that has shown interesting tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Although citral is listed as an allergen among the 26 fragrances in Annex III of the Cosmetics Directive 2003/15/EC, it can be safely used for the formulation of topical products in amounts that are not expected to cause skin sensitization, as shown by various commercially available products. The aim of this work was to evaluate two different formulations (oil/water emulsion, oily solution) containing a new combination of essential oils (Litsea cubeba, Pinus mugo, Cymbopogon winterianus) applied to the skin both in nonocclusive and partially occlusive modes. The blend is designed to reduce the concentration of citral to avoid potential skin reactions while taking advantage of the inhibitory activity of citral. Specifically, the amount of citral and other bioactive compounds (myrcene, citronellal) delivered through the skin was studied as a function of formulation and mode of application. The results show that an oil/water emulsion is preferable because it releases the bioactive compounds rapidly and minimizes their evaporative loss. In addition, semi-occluded conditions are required to prevent evaporation, resulting in higher availability of the bioactive compounds in viable skin.

Quality control of essential oils is fundamental for verifying their authenticity and conformity with quality standards, ensuring their safety and regulatory compliance, and monitoring their consistency. Companies that produce or market essential oils routinely evaluate the quality and authenticity of their products. However, they also must deal with increasing attention to environmental sustainability as well as practical considerations such as productivity, cost, and simplicity of methods. In this study, enantioselective gas chromatography (GC) was adopted to evaluate the quality of sweet and bitter orange essential oils, used as a case study. The analytical conditions were optimized and translated to fast GC to evaluate the impact of this approach on the environmental footprint of the analyses. The greenness of fast GC, compared with conventional GC, was quantitatively evaluated using a dedicated metric tool (AGREE), and important improvements have been calculated. The developed methods were applied to a set of commercial essential oils, and the data about the enantiomeric composition and relative percentage abundance were elaborated through multivariate statistics (principal component analysis). The results showed that fast chiral gas chromatography enables the classification of citrus essential oil samples and can be considered an environmentally friendly and sustainable approach for evaluating their quality.