Emilie Destandau

Water is one of the greenest and most accessible solvents. To harness its potential, the water-based microwave-assisted extraction (MAE) of pigments from madder was optimized by the response surface methodology (RSM) using a Box–Behnken experimental design. The extract that presented both the highest extraction yield and the most intense color was obtained after a 30-s cycle at 1000 W using 100 mg of madder for 20 mL of water. This water-based MAE was more efficient than Soxhlet extraction and proved comparable to hydroalcoholic MAE. The optimized extract was further characterized using UHPLC-HRMS/MS to identify its main compounds. Glycosylated flavonoids and anthraquinones were putatively identified, as well as free anthraquinones, generally found in madder. The microwave-assisted extraction extended the range of polarity of the extracted compounds, making the water more versatile.

The use of bioactive plant extracts in cosmetic products is a common practice. Most of these extracts are obtained by maceration in organic solvents, and depending on which solvents are used, the polarity and the structure of the target molecules will vary. Polyphenols are polar compounds that often display antioxidant and/or antibacterial activities. To extract them, ethanol/water mixtures are usually selected as green solvents. This solid–liquid extraction (assisted or not) requires the use of high volumes of solvents and many additional steps like mixing, agitation, filtration, and evaporation. Alternatively, supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) offers many benefits for plant extraction: economical, non-toxic, and naturally concentrated extracts. However, its low polarity is not suitable to solubilize polar compounds. In this study, an experimental design was used to optimize supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) of caffeine and catechins from Camellia sinensis. Catechins are recognized for skin care use (antioxidant) and caffeine is also used for its skin care properties and to prevent excess storage of fat in cells. The temperature, modifier content, and water additive percentage were used as independent variables. The results showed that while the temperature was an insignificant parameter, a higher percentage of water (up to 20% in ethanol) and modifier favored the extraction of the polar target molecules. Additionally, the SFE results were compared with ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE). Finally, a sequential selective extraction of caffeine from catechins is also presented.