Judyta Cielecka-Piontek

Photoaging is a process related to an increased level of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Polyphenols can scavenge free radicals in the body, which can delay skin aging. Therefore, our work aimed to prepare a biologically active extract from dry fruits of Vaccinium myrtillus or Vaccinium corymbosum and use it for the preparation of hydrogels for topical application. Therefore, eight different extracts (using V. myrtillus and V. corymbosum and different extraction mixtures: methanol, methanol–water 1:1, water, acetone–water 1:1) were prepared and their phytochemical (total polyphenolic content, total flavonoid content, total anthocyanin content) and biological properties (antioxidant, anti-hyaluronidase, and anti-tyrosinase activity) were assessed. Cytotoxicity towards HaCaT keratinocytes was also determined. Based on the results, the acetone–water extract from V. myrtillus was selected for further study. Using the Design of Experiments approach, chitosan-based hydrogels with bilberry fruit extract were prepared. The content of extract and chitosan were selected as independent factors. The activity of hydrogels depended on the extract content; however, the enzyme-inhibiting (anti-hyaluronidase and anti-tyrosinase) activity resulted from the presence of both the extract and chitosan. Increased concentration of chitosan in the hydrogel base led to increased viscosity of the hydrogel and, consequently, a slower release of active compounds. To get optimal hydrogel characteristics, 1% extract and 2.5% MMW chitosan were utilized. The research suggests the validity of using bilberry fruit extracts in topical preparations with anti-aging properties.